WALL STREET JOURNAL
From the Black Sea to Mountain Resorts,
A Travelers Guide to the Expanded EU
By STEPHANIE GRUNER
January 5, 2007
Two new members of the European Union, Bulgaria and Romania , mean two new easier travel destinations for Europeans. So is this good news for tourists?
Already it has meant progress in these Balkan countries better known for Dracula and Communist rule. Five-star hotels have opened up, airlines moved in and money gone into new roads, building restorations and better airports. Customer service is improving too.
"I have seen how the hotels, restaurants and local travel firms in each country have become increasingly aware of the standards that visitors from Western Europe and elsewhere expect, both at the five-star international level and the two-star village guest-house level," says John Osborne, a British guide who leads tours in the region for agencies including www.sunshinetours.net 1 and www.coxandkings.co.uk 2 .
The number of tourists is already increasing -- up 23% in Romania and up 14% in Bulgaria in 2004, according to the latest full-year statistics from the European Travel Commission, a group made up of the national tourist offices of 37 European countries. More visitors are expected with EU membership. Tourism surged in countries such as Estonia , Lithuania , Poland and Slovenia after they joined the EU, according to the commission. The arrival of discount airlines, more news about these countries and marketing campaigns targeted at people looking for cheaper and more unusual destinations boosted growth.
Romania , too, has been aggressively marketing itself -- more so than Bulgaria -- but both countries, with their beautiful natural landscapes, Black Sea coast and snowy mountains, stand to similarly benefit.
Still, visitors shouldn't expect Paris or St. Moritz . These are relatively poor countries, with many problems including pollution and corruption. While lots of reconstruction aid is pouring into these countries, it's early days, and how well the money will be managed remains to be seen. What visitors can expect, though, is a warm welcome.
It's been tour guide Mr. Osborne's experience that the more humble the surroundings, the more generous the hosts. "On my tours, I tell my clients that they won't find trouser presses in every room, and we get on fine," he says. While entering a small family-run hotel in the Bulgarian village of Koprivshtitsa he warned guests not to expect a porter. Just as he did, a man leaped forward and seized their bags. "I thought you said there weren't any porters here, John!" one of the guests said. "Quite right," he replied. "He's the owner."
Here's a look at Bulgaria and Romania today, what to see and do, how to get there, where to stay and what to know.
Baroque and Byzantine
Sofia, Bulgaria, is one of Europe's oldest capital cities and although it got its fair share of ugly Soviet-style concrete-block buildings during Communist rule, older architecture remains, including baroque buildings and Byzantine churches.
Two churches to visit include the 4th-century Rotunda of St. George, thought to be Sofia 's oldest building, as well as the more modern gold-domed Alexander Nevski Cathedral, which was completed in the early 20th century. It features frescoes, goldsmith and mosaic works and is worth a trip on a Sunday morning to hear the choir. Also visit the crypt to see a large collection of religious icons.
Sofia has lots of museums and you can find a list of them at www.sofia.com 3 . Two good choices include the National Archaeological Museum with findings from Thracian, Greek and Roman settlements, as well as the National Museum of History, which has a large collection of Thracian gold treasures.
The city itself is buzzing these days. There are new Western style malls and huge movie theaters. A project called "Beautiful Bulgaria" is under way to refurbish tourism and other sites. For entertainment, there is lots of theater including opera, ballet, drama and orchestral music -- for very little money. Good seats at the opera or ballet cost 20 leva , or about € 10, and lesser seats can be had for as little as eight leva . After hours is hopping too with new bars. Only recently Boy George played DJ at a club opening in Sofia .
Not far from Sofia there is hiking, as well as interesting monasteries to visit. In the foothills of Mount Vitosha you can see the Unesco protected Boyana Church with its 13th-century frescoes. There's also Rila Monastery , Bulgaria 's premier monastery, and also a Unesco World Heritage Site. This monastic complex originally built in the 10th century, but destroyed by fire and rebuilt in the 19th, is a day trip -- just two hours south of Sofia -- and provides a good example of the Bulgarian Renaissance. Bulgaria 's second biggest city, Plovdiv , is also worth a trip. It has a preserved old town, 19th-century merchants' houses and a Roman theater.
For more sybaritic pursuits there are wineries and wine tastings , such as at a winery in the town of Brestovitsa in the Plovdiv region, or at the Temple of Wine , a cellar in Varna on the Black Sea , with wines from all over the country. You can also find cheap skiing and, of course, the beaches on the Black Sea . The beaches near Varna are well known and include both large resort complexes as well as camp sites in more natural settings. There is also an airport in Varna . For skiing, Bansko , Bulgaria 's major ski resort, in the Blagoevgrad region, has new lifts and new hotels. A day lift pass for adults here costs 50 leva , or about €25, compared with €43 for a day pass in France 's Les Trois Vallées . For information on activities in Bulgaria try www.discover-bulgaria.com 4 .
Bucharest , Romania 's capital, is a busier city with a population nearly double Sofia 's. Although once referred to as the " Paris of the East," those days are long gone. There is beauty to be found, however. Its skyline contains the old and the new, neoclassical and Art Deco, alongside modern metal and glass buildings -- and then all those grim Communist-era ones. Efforts are under way to clean up the city, improve pedestrian thoroughfares and restore buildings.
For older architecture, the Lipscani neighborhood is worth visiting. It's one of the city's more historic with antique shops, art galleries and restaurants and is being restored. Other sites to see include the Palace of the Parliament, noted less for its beauty than its size. It's one of the biggest buildings in the world. Built in the 1980s by the Communist dictator Nicolae Ceausescu, it houses the National Museum of Contemporary Art. The Arcul de Triumf , or Triumphal Arch, is a popular landmark. Built in 1935, it's modeled after Paris 's Arc de Triomphe .
Like Sofia , Bucharest is hopping at night. Money coming into the city has meant fancier cars and trendier crowds in the cafes. You can find bars with live blues and jazz, as well theaters with opera, classical music and ballet. You can enjoy a night out including a three-course meal and box seats at the opera for less than €20. Then again, prices have been rising and meals at some of the most expensive restaurants can run closer to €40 per person. A good listing of events and clubs can be found at www.bucharest-guide.ro 5 .
Outside of Bucharest there's hiking in the Carpathian Mountains , a true wilderness with bears and wolves. You can find walking holidays that include a stop at Bran Castle , otherwise known as Dracula's Castle, which can be made as a day trip from Bucharest . Try www.iloveromania.ro 6 or www.responsibletravel.com 7 .
There are also bird-watching trips in the Danube Delta ( www.romaniatourism.com/delta.html 8 ), or you can visit Romania 's many medieval towns and old monasteries. Medieval cities include Brasov , Sighisoara and Sibiu . Sibiu in particular is a good choice this year, as it has been named European Capital of Culture in 2007 ( www.romaniatourism.com/sibiu2007.html 9 ) and will host cultural festivities during the year.
And finally, there's always the beach and the mountains. The most popular beach resorts include Mamaia and Eforie Nord . For skiing, there's Poiana , Brasov and Predeal . For information about various activities try www.romaniatourism.com 10 .
New Flights
It's become a lot easier to fly in and out of Bulgaria and Romania . Big and small airlines have opened up new routes. Austrian Airlines has new flights to three Romanian cities. British Airways, which added new routes to Sofia and Bucharest in 2005 from Gatwick Airport , this past summer doubled the number of flights to Varna to four each week. Lufthansa already has daily flights to both Bucharest and Sofia , but starting this month will increase two daily flights from Frankfurt to Bucharest to three. And next spring, Finnair will fly a new route to Bucharest from Helsinki .
Italy 's MyAir ( www.myair.com 11 ) has new routes from Italian cities to Bulgaria and Romania . Germanwings ( www.germanwings.com 12 ), a discount German airline, will in late March start flying to Bucharest and Sofia from Cologne-Bonn. Sky Europe ( www.skyeurope.com 13 ) offers routes to Bucharest and Sofia from Bratislava , Slovakia , and to Bucharest from Budapest . This month, Wizz Air ( www.wizzair.com 14 ) begins a series of routes from Bucharest to London , Barcelona , Rome and other cities.
And finally the local low-cost alternatives include Bulgaria Air ( www.air.bg 15 ) and Romania 's Blue Air ( www.blueair-web.com 16 ), which offer flights to Bulgaria and Romania from all around Europe . To find cheap flights to either country, visit: www.flycheapo.com 17 .
International Comforts
Increasingly hotels are adopting Western European standards. Big chains have the best facilities and they can be found mainly in the capital cities. Sheraton, Radisson, Hilton and Kempinski have hotels in Sofia , and offer suites, as well as fitness centers, spas, or both. If you're looking for something convenient for sightseeing, the Radisson and Sheraton are the most centrally located. Standard guest rooms during summer at these two hotels cost between €115 to €135 (most of the international hotels accept both euros and local currency.)
Other hotels worth knowing about in Sofia include Grand Hotel Sofia ( www.grandhotelsofia.bg 18 ), Art'Otel , Hotel Anel ( www.hotelanel.com 19 ) and Crystal Palace ( www.crystalpalace-sofia.com 20 ).
New hotels and resorts have sprung up outside the capital city, mostly in the mountain towns and along the Black Sea coast. It's too early to say which of these is best. In fact, the concern is that with so much construction and so little oversight, standards are low and experts are worried not just about the negative impact on the environment, but to tourism as well.
Still, one chain worth mentioning that is building luxury-style resorts outside of Sofia is Kempinski . It has two new hotels, both with spas. One is near the beach, 17 kilometers from Varna , and another is in the mountains in the town of Bansko . Rates at the Bansko Kempinski in February run from roughly €150 a night to more than €500 for a suite, while the hotel near Varna is offering a three-day stay with spa treatments for €150 a person until the end of April.
In Bucharest you'll find an InterContinental , a JW Marriott, a Hilton and a Sofitel . These hotels feature a variety of extras including health centers, indoor pools and even a casino at one. More hotels are coming. The Radisson is refurbishing a large hotel in downtown Bucharest , scheduled to open early this year. There's also a new Novotel in the business district with an indoor pool. Rates at these international hotels run from €100 for a standard room in July to €1,800 for the presidential suite at the Marriott.
Local alternatives include the Rembrandt ( www.rembrandt.ro 21 ), and also Capsa ( www.capsa.hotel.bucharest.tourneo.ro 22 ).
Travel Tips
Entry requirements have changed in both countries making access easier for European citizens. Border checks remain, but passports are no longer required of EU citizens. An identity card will suffice, and visitors can stay as long as they like. Americans still need a passport, but can stay 90 days now instead of 30.
Traveling around isn't difficult in the capital cities. English is increasingly spoken and most visitors can manage on their own, especially in shops and at hotels. In country towns, however, a guide would come in handy.
Air pollution remains a problem in both cities. On the streets, there's smog and petrol fumes. And as in much of Eastern Europe , smoking in bars and restaurants is still the norm, and can be a nuisance. The water is safe to drink -- and indeed both countries have mineral-water supplies -- but tour guides say it's better to play it safe and drink bottled.
While each country has its own currency, euros are increasingly accepted. This shouldn't be expected, however. Foreign currency can be exchanged at banks, authorized exchange offices and larger hotels.
And finally, both countries are relatively safe. There is street crime, especially in the cities, but it's no worse than in other European cities. Still, wherever there are tourists, there are pickpockets. Normal safeguards are enough such as keeping valuables in hotel safes and staying alert.
Safely driving around either country is another matter. Road conditions are generally poor, drivers aggressive, and accident rates high. Try public transportation or hire a driver.
Write to Stephanie Gruner at wsje.weekend@wsj.com 23
http://online.wsj.com/article_print/SB116794848457067514.html
By Tom Haines, Globe Staff | January 7, 2007
What to do
Painted churches of Bucovina Located in monastery compounds only a few dozen miles from the border with Ukraine , they are one of Romania 's most coveted artistic treasures. National and international tourism to the region has flourished since the fall of communist rule in 1989. Summer months are busiest.
Tour operators offer package itineraries to the region, often as part of a trip through Transylvania , to the southwest, and Maramures , to the west. The rural region also offers a relaxed landscape for travelers preferring local trains and buses.
Restaurants and well-stocked markets are found in even smaller villages, while meals are served at most family-run guest houses. With roads still traveled by horse cart, a rental car is best for those hoping to visit several churches over a few days.
Group tours can be arranged through brasovtravelguide.ro/en/romania/bucovina/bucovinas-monastery.php or goromaniatours.com/tour-list.asp?Region = Bucovina .
"The Rough Guide to Romania " (Rough Guides, 2004) provides extensive logistical details and recommendations of local guides .
Where to stay
Continental Hotel Suceava Str . Mihai Viteazul 4-6, Suceava
011-40-230-210-944
E-mail: sv_mk@continentalhotels.ro
continentalhotels.ro
A two-star taste of the communist era in the county capital of Suceava , a city of 120,000, before heading west to the painted churches. Double $53, breakfast included. Monastery tours can be arranged through the hotel.
Pensiunea "Stefan Viorica" sat Moldovita, nr. 228, Moldovita
011-40-746-066-567
E-mail: ionut_ moldovita2002@yahoo.com (English)
A warm family -run guest house on a side street in a village north of the painted church by the same name. Home cooking of traditional Bucovina dishes, served with homemade brandy. The owner's son speaks English. Book ahead in summer, as many guests stay for days. Double $47, breakfast and dinner included .
Sonet de munte RO Sucevita , no. 307, Sucevita
011-40-230-417-174
E-mail: sonetdemunte@web.de (English)
A modern compound of guest apartments with country decor, set amid farmland a short drive from the Sucevita painted church. Double $85, breakfast and dinner included .
http://www.boston.com/travel/articles/2007/01/07/if_you_go_romania?mode=PF
By Tom Haines, Globe Staff | January 7, 2007
What to do
Sibiu
The city will serve as a Cultural Capital of Europe in 2007, with exhibitions and concerts throughout the year. Visit sibiu2007.ro for details.
2007 George Enescu international music festival Bucharest
For details, visit festivalenescu.ro/eng/festival.html.
Personal guide For independent travelers interested in the services of an English-speaking guide, contact Ben Mehedin , in the city of Sighisoara , at ben.mehedin@gmail.com .
Where to stay
Anyone traveling in Romania for even a few days will encounter plenty of the disparities that come with an economy in transition, from gourmet restaurants to rustic country inns.A few suggestions of places with special appeal:
Rembrandt Hotel 11, Smârden Str ., Bucharest
011-40-213-139-315
E-mail: info@rembrandt.ro
rembrandt.ro
A stylish yet subdued hotel with 16 rooms in a renovated building in the historic city center. Great location for touring the city on foot. Double $150, breakfast included .
Casa Luxemburg Piata Micâ Nr. 16, Sibiu
011-40-269-216-854
E-mail: info@casaluxemburg.ro
casaluxemburg.ro
Another great location with character, this only steps from key sites in Sibiu . A tourist agency associated with the hotel can arrange tours of the city and surroundings. Double $75, breakfast included .
Where to eat
Caru ' cu bere Str . Stavropoleos 3-5, Bucharest
011-40-213-137-560
carucubere.ro
Wooden tables set beneath ornate vaulted ceilings welcome locals and tourists for home-brewed beer and hearty Romanian cuisine. Try the house specialty: pork served with pickled cabbage, polenta, red peppers , and horseradish. Serving for two $18 .
Restaurant " Butoiul de Aur " Pasajul Scarilor , Sibiu
011-40-269-214-575
Set at the base of a stone staircase in Sibiu 's old town, Butoiul serves traditional fare with excellent wines from Romania 's Prahova Valley . Try their version of " tochitura , " a pork stew served with polenta. Dinner for two $25 .
Resources
From Black Sea beaches to sites of revolution, modern Romania offers rich insights into a culture long at the crossroads.
The country's tourism office.
"The Rough Guide to Romania "
Provides excellent details on travel in the country's varied regions (Rough Guides, 2004).
http://www.boston.com/travel/articles/2007/01/07/if_you_go_tour_romania?mode=PF
SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE - JUST BACK FROM: Sucevita , Romania
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Sunday , January 7, 2007
Traveler: Mary Vella , Tiburon
I went because: We had business meetings in Bucharest and afterward wanted to experience traditional Romania , an undiscovered gem, before it joins the European Union.
Don't miss: The Painted Monasteries, adorned inside and out with Byzantine frescoes depicting biblical events and infused with local folk art and mythology.
Don't bother: Trying to explore the back roads shown on the maps. The locals will observe you in awe as you attempt to drive the dirt roads leading nowhere.
Coolest souvenir: Real painted eggs, crafted by the nuns who oversee the monasteries. Each is unique and costs about $2.
Worth a splurge: Hard to splurge -- everything is inexpensive. The best hotel, $65, was Popa's Bucovina , haven to Prince Charles on a visit two years earlier.
I wish I'd packed: A wide-brimmed rain hat to protect my camera, which was constantly at my eye. We had three days of rain (out of 10) in early May.
Other comments: Limit your monastery visits. After a few, their details become confusing.